Mazatlán Old, New and All Around
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Parasailing above the surf is one way to see Mazatlan |
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Our initial RV journey to Mazatlan one recent November was more about getting a handle on the city than it was about a whirlwind of touring. We wanted to know why so many Americans and Canadians retire there, what services are available, how the beaches feel underfoot and which region of the city appealed to us most.
The decision of where to RV camp was easy for us. A beach experience was the first choice. Mazatlán has miles and miles of beaches for RVers to enjoy. By researching and scouring maps before departure, we settled on Mar Rosa, a full service RV park right on the beach in the Zona Dorada (Golden Zone). By taking the turnoff from Maxipista 15 to the north beaches, we were able to enter the RV park with the least amount of time spent on crowded city streets.
One of the advantages of staying at Mar Rosa that we didn’t anticipate was the park’s proximity to transportation services. This turned out to be a very lucky circumstance, once we got the lay of the land. And also, not far down the road was a lovely Internet café where we could check email and enjoy a gourmet cup of coffee.
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RV camping steps from the surf is possible in Mazatlan |
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Mazatlán, a city of about a half million people, is affectionately called the Pearl of the Pacific. It is an old coastal city 13 km south of the Tropic of Cancer and is centered along a peninsula. The local shrimp fleet is the largest in Mexico. Commercial fishing is another huge industry.
Additionally the city is home to a number of other industries including the Pacifico brewery, which makes one of Mexico's most popular beers. We didn’t have to explore too far to find a Wal-Mart Super Center with a great grocery department. Other travelers and Americans who live in Mazatlan report to us that medical services including doctors and hospitals serve them well.
Many of Mazatlán’s half million people appear to be on the roads at once. In the oldest part of the city, lanes are narrow, corners are tight and curbs are extremely high because Mazatlan has a very intense rainy season. Given the streets, for central city visits we became happy to utilize public transportation. Fortunately, there are lots of ways to get around.
History has it that while towns were first settled in the region some 400 years ago, Mazatlán as a permanent settlement didn’t come to be until the1820s. The name Mazatlán stems from "Mazatl," a Náhuatl Indian word meaning "Place of the Deer."
Areas of Mazatlán, Old and New
The city has both old and new sections. The original city is at the south end of town and at its center are the Plaza Principal and the cathedral. For our part, we found the historic Plazuela Machado on the corner of Carnaval and Constitución to be an especially appealing point of interest.
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Plazuela Machado comes alive late in the evening with alluring sidewalk cafes |
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The plaza meanders along a tree lined walkway between beautifully restored historic buildings. Sidewalk cafes invite visitors to stop and sample their menus. Community events are common. During our visit one evening, an awards ceremony was taking place honoring Mexican photographers whose works were impressively displayed along the walking path.
At the nearby historic theatre, Teatro Angela Peralta which was built in 1865 and reopened in 1992 after a lengthy restoration project, a ballet performance had just finished. The animated after-theatre crowd stepped out into the night. Well-dressed families with their young ballerinas still in dance attire milled into the plaza and joined those of us who were strolling under trees adorned with tiny white lights.
Another area we enjoyed visiting was the Malecón, the seaside walkway that runs along the seafront in the area near Olas Altas or Old Town. The name Olas Altas means "high waves." The Malecón is another area where late in the day, especially on Sunday evenings, families stroll. Each evening when the sun starts to set the Malecón springs to life. Vendors sell treats to eat, jewelry, pottery and all kinds of other handicrafts. Mazatlán is a city that treasures its public art, and along the Malecón are a number of exceptionally beautiful monuments.
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Monumento a la Continuidad de la Vida (Monument to the Continuity of Life) |
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Mazatlán also boasts an attraction similar to one that is popular in Acapulco. On a pedestrian overlook in this same part of town is a high-divers tower where one can watch cliff divers, clavadistas, dive into the ocean from their high perch. They miss the rocky cliffs to the amazement of onlookers. While the spectacle isn’t as routinely scheduled as the divers of Acapulco, it is nonetheless a display of bravery and skill.
One outing we will have to save for next visit is the lighthouse, Cerro del Crestón (El Faro), which is also in this older section of town. El Faro is reportedly the second highest lighthouse in the world. One can hike the 500-plus feet to the summit and get a 360 degree view of the entire Mazatlán area.
As an aside, Olas Altas was Mazatlán’s early tourist zone, where visitors first flocked in the 1950s. We could not visit Olas Altas in good conscience without having lunch at El Shrimp Bucket below the La Siesta Hotel. On the day of our visit, there was some renovation going in the hotel that included concrete work. A line of men were passing buckets of soupy cement from hand to hand, until one man finally poured and troweled the area that was in repair. It was a labor intensive endeavor, but quiet, efficient and non-invasive to diners.
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The Malecon comes to life at sunset |
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Since the early tourism days of the 1950s, the tourist zone has migrated further north to the Zona Dorada (Golden Zone) where the large hotels are concentrated. Information about what’s happening in town for visitors can be found in the two free English newspapers—the Pacific Pearl and La Puerta. They are published twice a month.
The Mazatlán Season
The most popular season for visiting Mazatlán is November to May. Cooler temperatures prevail January through March. Typical daytime highs: 70s to low 80s. Evenings: low 60s. Rainy season July through September is not recommended.
Isla de la Piedra—Stone Island—is yet another site to visit. It also is at the very south end of town. Stone Island is not really an island at all, but a long peninsula. There is a ferry near the cruise ship docks that shuttles people to and from Stone Island about every 20 minutes. There is also an RV park for those who want to stay on Stone Island.
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White sand beaches stretch for miles in Mazatlan |
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Popular beach areas of Punta Camarón and Playa Sábalo are on each side of the boldly Moorish style landmark, Valentinos, in the Golden Zone. The beaches attract local surfers. Vendors selling wares to tourists also parade along the beach here.
Less well-visited and more secluded are the beaches of Playa Bruja and Punta Cerritos at the far north end of town beyond the Golden Zone. Bus travelers can take the "Cerritos" buses from the Golden Zone to these beautiful and isolated beaches. There are a handful of open-air restaurants. At the time of our visit, horseback riding was also available.
For those who have an interest, bullfights are usually featured on Sundays and holidays in the winter season at the Plaza Monumental. In the summer months, rodeo becomes the featured event.
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The soaring platform that this Mazatlan clifftop oceanfront park is unlike any other |
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Also on our list for future visits are two aquatic attractions. One is Acuario Mazatlán, the aquarium. It is said to be the largest in Mexico and one of the largest in all of Latin America, with many interesting exhibits and displays, a tropical botanical park as well as sea lion and exotic bird shows offered several times a day. Another is one of the nearby offshore islands, Isla de Venados—Deer Island. Trips can be arranged from the Aqua Sports Center adjacent to the El Cid Hotel.
Getting Around Mazatlán
Pulmonias
A pulmonia can provide transportation and on occasion more. These uniquely Mazatlan open-air vehicles look like a hybrid between a Volkswagen “Thing” and a golf cart on steroids.
We hired a pulmonia to take us from Mar Rosa in the Zona Dorada to Plazuela Machado. The driver asked us if we would like see more of Mazatlán, and we negotiated a fair price for a drive around town with highlights pointed out. He offered suggestions for where locals like to eat and things to see we might enjoy.
After our very informal tour, our driver offered to pick us when we were done strolling. We assured him we didn’t know exactly when we would need that ride back to our RV park. He suggested we ask for him by name during our stay. The negotiated charge was about 80 pesos. We included a tip since his service was superior.
Incidentally, the open-air car’s name is derived from the old-fashioned belief that exposure to night air causes pneumonia, which in Spanish is pulmonía.
Taxis
Taxis are commonly red or green striped. They are usually cheaper than the pulmonias, if not as exotic. As always, it is a good idea to confirm the price before you accept the ride.
Buses
A public bus ride is a cheap way to get around. Yes, there are a few marked bus stops, but mostly people simply flag down a bus and the bus stops to pick up the passenger. We didn’t try the experience, but heard from other travelers that you pay the driver as you board. With regular buses, the most recent report we heard was that a five peso coin will get you change and that with the newer green deluxe buses that serve “Sabalo/Centro”, the main link from the Golden Zone to Centro (old town), a ten peso coin will get you change. The big difference for the price is more space and air conditioning.
We have heard that bus service is generally between 5:30 a.m. and 10:30 p.m., and also that you should hang on to your ticket. In the Golden Zone where tourism is the mainstay, fellow travelers have told us that they just watch where people gather and wait for a bus.
During our November stay, the weather was balmy with a sweatshirt comfortable for cool night breezes.
The following chart sums up the weather. It is easy to why November to May is the time to visit Mazatlan.
| Month | °C | °F | Rain in Inches |
| January | 20.8 | 69.1 | 0.7 |
| February | 20.1 | 68.2 | 0.2 |
| March | 20.6 | 69.1 | 0.3 |
| April | 22.2 | 72.1 | 0.1 |
| May | 24.4 | 76.1 | 0.0 |
| June | 27.5 | 81.5 | 1.2 |
| July | 28.2 | 82.8 | 8.3 |
| August | 28.3 | 83.1 | 7.2 |
| September | 28.2 | 82.8 | 5.6 |
| October | 27.5 | 81.1 | 3.4 |
| November | 22.2 | 72.0 | 0.3 |
| December | 21.7 | 71.1 | 0.4 |