THE ARIZONA MEXICO CONNECTION

RV travelers pause in the Guatemalan highlands.

by MARY SCHULTZ from the archives, Trailer Life Magazine, February 1993

   While we always enjoy a trailer camping weekend with our two school-aged daughters, we also enjoy traveling on a grand scale. So it surprised no one when we filled a 29-foot bunkhouse-model travel trailer, hitched it to our four-wheel-drive Chevrolet Suburban K-20 and took off for the Panama Canal. The odyssey became, as one friend predicted, a "unique opportunity for personal growth."

   As you know, several Central American nations only recently have enjoyed peace. Tourism is in its infancy, and U.S.-type RV facilities are few. However, during our 99-day roundtrip journey from Montana to Panama, we discovered that whatever Central America lacks in readiness for RV travelers, it more than makes up for in rich history, glorious scenery, exquisite crafts and truly gracious people.

   Along our 12,000-mile journey, our trailer was dubbed by the natives a casita completa, a complete little house. For our daughters, ages 11 and 13, it was also a schoolhouse. Their temporary home-bound education program filled a hefty Rubbermaid Action Packer. Many of their travel experiences dovetailed with their school assignments—from metric conversions to geography to earth science. Other lessons were the kind never taught in school, such as how to live on the move when you are uncertain what lies ahead.

   We traveled with a caravan, departed from it for periods of time so we could explore additional sights, then rejoined it again later. (Before signing on with a caravan company for a trip of such magnitude, we recommend getting in writing exactly what the company will provide.)

Few U.S. visitors can resist belts and hand-loomed huipils.

   For anyone contemplating RV travel in southern Mexico and/or Central America, perhaps a brief overview of our experience can help make their trips more enjoyable. Since many RVers visit the northern and central regions of Mexico's 761,604 square miles, there is ample information available on those areas, but less on cities farther south.

   In Mexico's southernmost state, Chiapas, the city of San Cristobal de Las Casas, with 40,000 people, lies in a high valley. Off the beaten path, it’s a charming colonial city with many amenities, and it's a good base camp for other explorations within Chiapas.

   There is an RV park, which is operated by Hotel Bonampak, that offers 26 spaces with full hookups. To reach it from Tuxtla Gutierrez, take Highway 190 past the Bartolome de las Casas Monument, and bear right toward Comitan and the Guatemalan border beyond.

   The Indian marketplace is open every day except Sunday, and the often-shy Mayan women sell Mexican and Guatemalan wares, superstitiously shielding their faces when a camera comes into view. For our daughters, this was one of many cultural lessons that made a lasting impression.

Outdoor toys brought a town square and our kids together.

   Like the culture of this region, its geography also has a personal impact.

   Roads are steep. Between Tuxtla Gutierrez, the capital city of Chiapas at an altitude of 1700 feet, and San Cristobal at 7000 feet, it's only 50 miles—a quick climb of about a mile in elevation. Since there are no turnouts in the thick forests, RVs equipped with an after-market transmission cooler have a distinct advantage. 

   Las Grutas de San Cristobal, Mexico’s version of Carlsbad Caverns, lies about three miles outside of town. Inside the eucalyptus-forested park, visitors can rent horses for a spirited ride through meadows and trails. Native vendors also frequent the park, selling handcrafted dolls, woven potholders, leather belts and hair ornaments.

Vendors at Las Grutas, San Cristobal

Trailers and larger motorhomes should not risk the perilous road into the park, but smaller units and cars can negotiate the drive without sustaining damage. It's a pleasant stop en route to the Guatemalan border, 195 miles away.

   At the Mexico-Guatemala border and throughout Central America, border personnel are generally kind and helpful during the lengthy, paperwork-heavy crossing process. Visa requirements change, so check with these countries' consulates at home before your U.S. departure. In addition to a passport and vehicle registration, you'll need to complete travel documents in Spanish for each country you visit. Fumigation is also required in varying forms of fog and fluid, and involves an additional minor change. Since the pace cannot be hastened, this hurry-up-and-wait setting provides an ideal occasion to write postcards.

   While most fronteras (border crossings) operate during regular business hours, with a standard lengthy lunch break, a crossing begun at the end of the day may be incomplete at closing, leaving you with the choice of parking within the border area for the night or backtracking.

Our longest camp was at Lake Amatitlan, Guatemala.

   After spending many hours at the Mexico-Guatemala border, we learned to cross early in the day.

   In land mass, Guatemala is about the size of Tennessee, with a current estimated population of 9.5 million. Guatemala City, the capital, is the largest city in Central America, with more than 2 million people. It's best for RV travelers to set up camp near enough to this city to visit its cultural centers, yet far enough not to have to tangle with its gripping traffic. The closest camping to the capital city is in Amatitlan, within easy reach of major thoroughfares. From Mexico, continue on Highway CA1 toward Guatemala City, and turn south onto Highway CA9 toward Amatitlan. Along this stretch, there are two campgrounds, La Red and Automariscos, located at Kilometer 34 on Highway CA9.

   Automariscos has seven full-hookup spaces, 10 with electricity and water, 60 without hookups and a common sewer dump. The campground boasts three luxurious thermal pools, a Jacuzzi, a water slide, sparkling-clean steam baths, a snack bar and a dining room. Automariscos was one of the finest campgrounds we experienced in all of Central America. La Red offers 20 spaces with hookups, 20 without and two swimming pools. Either of these facilities makes a great base camp for visiting points of interest.
 

A lenten celebration in Antigua.

  The intriguing churches, native markets and other points of natural and historical significance in Antigua, Guatemala City, Chichicastenango and Panajachel make the Guatemalan highlands a priority destination. Mayan markets in these cities fairly burst with exquisite hand-woven rugs, tapestries and clothing, not to mention jewelry in jade and silver. Each town is worth a visit, but a chartered bus or a rental car is preferable to exposing RVs to these roads, especially the grueling one to Chichicastenango.

Important Information

   We highly recommend that all travelers to Central America brush up on the history and culture of these countries before undertaking a trip such as ours. Also, we suggest that at least one member of the party have some fluency in Spanish.  

Security

In Managua, Nicaragua, where we heard single shots early one morning, we were told that street crime is rampant, although none of us encountered theft. In Guatemala near the EI Salvador border, we heard automatic weapons some distance away. In Tegucigalpa, Honduras, a soldier demanded a cash donation, but backed off when my husband arrived. These events were disconcerting, but we never actually faced threat of harm.

Health

Inoculations are not required, although some may be recommended, such as cholera and tetanus. Malaria does exist in some areas. Your physician is the best source of advice.

We had nothing more than an upset stomach (twice) during our 99- day trip, which good health I attribute directly to our RV accommodations. We could sanitize and prepare food in our own galley to ensure cleanliness, and our bathroom facilities were unmatched in the finest hotels. 

Money

Currency varies from country to country, and the U.S. dollar frequently fluctuates. With the exception of Panama, which uses U.S. money, here's the amount of each country's currency that equaled one U.S. dollar during our visit:

Propane

Propane was readily available whenever we needed it and was usually reasonably priced.

Insurance

We did not purchase any special medical insurance, but we did buy liability insurance for the rig. In El Salvador, no insurance can be purchased at any price. In Costa Rica, national auto insurance must be purchased upon entry. M.S

   Bordering Guatemala to the south, on the Pacific coast, is El Salvador. Slightly smaller than the state of Massachusetts, it is roughly comparable in both population and size, but that is where the comparison ends. This country of contrasts boasts more than 200 miles of beaches, as well as mountains that tower above 7800 feet. The dry months, October to April, are recommended for travel (as in all of Central America).

   The capital city, San Salvador, is situated nearly 2000 feet above sea level and has a pleasant year-round climate. The San Salvador commercial center, Feria Rosa, at the Carretera Panamericana and Avenida de la Revolucion, is a very contemporary multilevel mall. Its many shops sell quality handicrafts, including a wide range of objects made of wicker, clay, ceramics, weavings and the peculiarly Salvadorian bright-enamel-painted woodcarvings. There's also a complete grocery store, stocked with staples such as Luma, the rich local coffee, and bottled water.

   In San Salvador and throughout Central America, the availability of tap water and its purity is unreliable. Trial and error brought us to a solution. When we were able to fill our tanks with tap water, we chlorinated it lightly for showering and dishwashing. For drinking, we purchased small plastic jugs of purified water from markets. On one occasion, we flagged a bottled-water truck and purchased directly from the driver.

Sunset at Golfito, Costa Rica

   Stocked with water, we continued our explorations of the very cosmopolitan city. One outstanding attraction is the David J. Guzman National Museum, which contains a permanent exhibition of thousands of historical relics. For night life, it's the Zona Rosa, located in the residential district of San Benito.

   Government-sponsored travel information claims one can travel from San Salvador to any part of the country and return in the same day. That claim exaggerates the prospects for RVs, but EI Salvador does offer some breathtaking natural attractions to visit.
El Cerro Verde, for example, is a wonderland of lush vegetation and thick groves of centennial trees. The park's focal point is the 5566-foot-high dormant volcano, Izalco. The Hotel de Montana, located at its summit, permits a close-range view of this oft-smoking cone. A walk through the park's paths leads to a vista of Lago Coatepeque, a Central American lookalike for Oregon's Crater Lake.

   Guatemala's other immediate neighbor is Honduras. Compared with Kentucky's 40,414 square miles, Honduras has 43,277, and it's about as sparsely populated as Kentucky. Although Honduras offers virtually no true RV services, its roads are generally good, and there is a handy solution to the problem. Both in Tegucigalpa, the capital city, and just outside the Copan ruins there are gas stations willing to permit RV camping.

   As in much of Central America, Honduras motels and hotels may permit overnight camping in their parking lots for a fee far less than the cost of a room. When it comes to hospitality, there's more flexibility in Central America than in the United States.
The laws of the road, however, are inflexible. No matter where you travel in Central America, you'll encounter traffic police checkpoints. Officers are, by and large, pleasant, efficient and eager to expedite you through the system. By being prepared with your travel documents, you can help speed the process.
This is especially important for travel through the uneasy border shared by Honduras and Nicaragua. Similar to Alabama in size and density, Nicaragua has an estimated population of 3.9 million people spread over 50,193 square miles—approximately 62 people per square mile.

   From the El Espino border station, Nicaragua Highway CA1 continues as signs direct toward the capital city, Managua. About 83 miles from the border in Sebaco (at kilometer post 102) is a campsite at what looks to be a private home in close proximity to Valle Motel. The campground host is Raul Calero. There are about 30 spaces, but no hookups. Limited water may be available.
This campsite is more than 60 miles from Managua, too far to be a jumping-off point for explorations. Closer to Managua, along the Pan-American Highway, are river spas called balnearios, more convenient possibilities for base camps.

   Another recommended tactic is to drive into Managua, visit the National Palace and the remains of the adjacent cathedral, continue on Highway CA21/12 southbound through embassy row and then back out into the pleasant countryside. This route, toward Rivas, offers the option of taking Nicaragua Highway 4 to Granada.

Life in a rural Nicarguan settlement.

   The enchanting and historic capital is only about 27 miles from Managua, and bypassing a return to Managua, it's just a 39-mile trip from Granada to Rivas along the Pan-American Highway.
It is here that the highway stretches southward between the Pacific Ocean and about one-fourth of the 100-mile shoreline of Lake Nicaragua. In riveting view is the island of Ometepe with its fraternal twin volcanoes, Concepcion and Madera, and, ultimately, the Penas Blancas border of Nicaragua and Costa Rica.

   For today's travelers, it's a happy circumstance that the minimalist RV provisions in Nicaragua are followed by the bounty of Costa Rica, which compares in size to New Hampshire and Vermont combined. Its land mass of about 35,000 square miles supports 3 million people. About half an hour from the capital city, San Jose, in the town of San Antonio de Belen, is Belen Trailer Park. It's a full-service, potable-water-out-of-the-tap campground operated by a truly obliging couple, a Costa Rican man and his English speaking California wife.

   Luckily, Belen is situated along the northwestern approach to the city, so RVs don't have to brave the labyrinth of San Jose en route. The simplest route is to take the Pan-American Highway past the international airport turnoff, continue straight to the intersection of Highway 111, then turn right and proceed one mile to Belen Trailer Park.

   Belen is an excellent base camp for visiting numerous destinations within Costa Rica, from the famous ox-cart artisans of Sarchi to the myriad national parks. The southbound highway to Costa Rica's world-renowned beaches is excellent as far as the town of Parrita. Beyond Parrita, there is a rugged portion of road before pavement begins again near Manuel Antonio National Park. This road is, however, far superior to the only other overland route to this must-see park. The alternate course, a palm-fruit truck route paved with fist-sized stones, runs between Playa Dominical and Manuel Antonio. Driving it requires caution, patience and more patience.

   Far, far south of San Jose, about 22 miles from the border of Panama, is the turnoff to a delightful side trip for tropical sun-and-sand lovers—Golfito. Follow Highway 14 to this town, and inquire on the bay shore about a restaurant or hotel that will allow you to camp for a fee.

   Our campsite was a huge restaurant named Samoa under a palapa. The proprietors not only provided needed water, they procured us a barca, a small boat. The whimsical pilot took us out to coral reefs teeming with tropical fish, then down for a swim at Zancudo Beach, where the water is so warm it seems to soften your hair.

Beach camp, Costa Rica

   Costa Rica lends itself to experiences like this one. The temptation to stay might have been irresistible but for our goal—to visit the eighth wonder of the world, the Panama Canal.
Even with our goal so near, basic needs kept surfacing. We were out of propane again. Our route along the Pan-American Highway was dotted with LP-gas installations, and we would simply pull in by the gate and honk. At our next LP-gas sighting, tanks were not filled at the plant. The employees directed us to the nearest sales point. We were on our way.

   The cicadas hummed so loudly we couldn't talk as we wended through thick forests along the Pan-American Highway, finally approaching Panama. Similar in size to Maine, but with more than double the population density, Panama is a melting pot like none other. It is inhabited by people of European descent, descendants of Africans kidnapped for the slave trade, Indians of the San Blas Islands, Chinese and East Indians, among others. In fact, these people do not consider themselves Central Americans, but Panamanians. They call themselves "coffee with cream," some with darker-coffee complexions, others heavy on cream.

   Vast distances lie between RV accommodations throughout Panama. Once we even camped at a lively restaurant/ discotheque. Our daughters were delighted to have their schoolwork supplemented with lessons in popular Latin dances.
The jewel we soon found for camping was Hotel Playa Corona. The clearly marked turnoff from the Pan-American Highway is approximately 32 miles beyond the provincial capital of Penonome. Corona offers 25 RV spaces with full hookups, a restaurant/ bar, a coin-operated laundry facility and even a mechanic's services for spot repairs. The English-speaking host, Paul Uliantzeff, accepts major credit cards and provides currency exchange, as well.

   Unique to Playa Corona is its location at the mouth of the Rio Corona; 16-foot tides fill the river's mouth twice a day, creating a natural swimming pool free of turbulent waves and tugging currents. If and when guests can tear themselves from this idyllic spot, the host will arrange transportation to and tours of Panama City, preferable to driving through car-crowded streets designed for horses and carts.

Bridge of the Americas at the Panama Canal.

  In retrospect, we would gladly accept the arrangements offered at Playa Corona. However, we drove through Panama City, across the astounding, breathtaking Bridge of the Americas and to the Miraflores Locks, for the presentation on the monumental building endeavor that created the Panama Canal.

   The Panamanians tend toward lightheartedness, with a social graciousness unrivaled in all our travels. For an example, we had to repeatedly assure our hired guide that we truly wanted to see firsthand the area of Panama City decimated by U.S. efforts to extract Manuel Noriega from hiding. Not far from this site, a single voice called out to us, "Yankee, go home." Our guide had been trying to protect us from anything that might spoil our visit, but that was really the only unfriendly word we encountered throughout our travels.

   On another occasion in Panama City, we made a wrong turn onto a very narrow street. A well-dressed gentleman, hands waving, shouted at us to stop—only to see our rear wheels rise on the corner curb. Neighbors filed out of their homes. We were a spectacle. Hand on his forehead, the man moaned, "Ay, caramba!" He and his friends apologized for the difficulty we had. Together, all the residents of the block patiently directed us to a safe landing.

  Of course, like large cities everywhere, Central American cities have crime. Also, we learned from other visiting Americans that civil conflict still exists in some areas, usually regions well-known to locals and distant from the main highways. But throughout our travels, hospitality and friendship were repeatedly extended to us on a one-to-one basis.

   For instance, a Santa Ana, El Salvador, restaurateur described his openness toward tourists. With a wide smile and a broad gesture of his hands, he said, "If they know how beautiful is my country, they would come."